Review | Taco Bell makes a great crunch wrap. This D.C. bar makes it better.

On Tuesday nights, you can feel a buzz building inside Jackie Lee’s bar before you take your first sip of mezcal Negroni.

That’s when the good-natured Brightwood tavern turns its kitchen over to Jaren Morrow and his Kennedy Street Tacos. While other watering holes may expect business to dip on a school night early in the week, Jackie Lee’s regularly fills up with a cross-section of Northwest Washington to taste Morrow’s take on Taco Bell’s cult-hit Crunchwrap Supreme. Born as a pandemic pop-up, KST has endured and evolved into a weekly “residency,” also serving fried naan chalupas, plantain-stuffed burritos and deep-fried “fiesta” potatoes, among other things.

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